Cologne breweries, which you may not know yet

The cathedral, River Rhine, local districts, churches, clubs and carnival are all part of Cologne’s identity. But it’s the city’s brewery pubs (“Brauhäuser”) that really hold the key to understanding its soul. You could, of course, try the well-known ones in the centre or the old part of the city (“Altstadt”). But lots of locals prefer the brewery pubs in their own districts – not least because the Kölsch is 30 to 40 cents cheaper. I have conducted some thorough research into this matter and can now present five brewery pubs in Cologne that score top points for atmosphere and friendliness.

Local celebrities, regulars and groups out for a drink or ten are all among the clientele at this cosy place. What’s more, with a chequered history that stretches back to 1889, Max Stark is perhaps the number one attraction in the “Kunibertsviertel” district. It doesn’t do music or carnival but it does do good brewery-style cuisine, served by quick-witted waiters and washed down, naturally, with Päffgen Kölsch fresh from the cask. This occasionally results in the odd patron ending up slightly off kilter… I’ll never forget the receipt I once found on a table here: it was for a group of four guests who had partaken of 100 glasses of Kölsch and four Ehrenfelder schnapps plus one chicken salad. Respect!

Max Stark
Unter Kahlenhausen 47, 50668 Cologne
Web: www.max-stark.de, www.facebook.com/pages/Max-Stark/159337160765955

The traditional songs of Cologne depict typical scenes of people gathering together to enjoy a drink. And if you think it’s just a myth, Früh em Veedel is here to prove you wrong! This chilled place has been around since 1886 and for a long time people used to call it the “Invalidendom” because pensioners and veterans used to meet here to start the day off with a schnapps. In fact, the spirits were actually made by the Hermann family themselves, who ran the pub back then. You can still get them today and take a look at the boiler next door in the dining area, where the food is mainly hearty local cuisine. Don’t worry though, if you get hungry at the bar, you can always order a meatball instead.

Früh em Veedel
Chlodwigplatz 28, 50670 Cologne
Web: www.fruehemveedel.de, www.facebook.com/FRÜH-Em-Veedel-298583300311345/

In Cologne, “Köbes” waiters buy a cask of Kölsch from the brewery pub and sell it on to the thirsty customers in “their” part of the pub. It’s a system that has proven successful over the years as a way of serving customers quickly and it’s used at Pütz too. Located on Engelbertstraße, Pütz sells Kölsch from the Malzmühle brewery, itself something of an institution in Cologne. When you enter for the first time, you’ll be amazed by the spacious, catacomb-like interior. The cosiest spot is right at the back in a room dedicated to the “seven drinkers” in a nod to a series of paintings hanging there. The Kölsch, fresh from the tap, goes well with a goulash roll or the “Brauhaus” platter. If you’re looking for something a little more filling, there’s everything from smoked pork with sauerkraut to a huge pork knuckle with sauté potatoes. Enjoy!

Brauhaus Pütz
Engelbertstraße 67, 50674 Cologne
Web: www.facebook.com/Brauhauspuetzkoeln/

In its current guise, Malzbier-Brauerei Gerhard Fischenich is so new that even a lot of locals don’t know it exists. But the building has certainly been around for quite some time and was home to the Haus Schulz pub for 120 years. Since mid-2016 it’s been run by the owners of Haus Töller opposite, who also provide the Päffgen Kölsch from wooden casks. The minimalist menu contains goulash, potato soup and the acclaimed grilled pork knuckle. But that’s just one of the assets of this splendid, old-fashioned place, the entrance of which is lit by a gas lamp like in the old days. The door opens onto what is possibly the most beautiful taproom in Cologne. And the bar is so compact that you’re bound to find someone to talk to!

Malzbier-Brauerei Gerhard Fischenich
Weyerstraße 71, 50676 Cologne
Web: www.facebook.com/gerhardfischenich/

This brewery pub is Reissdorf’s main one and is located in the “Griechenmarkt” district, an area that has managed to keep its local charm. With its modern interior and cosy feel, the pub has been attracting people of all ages and backgrounds since 1992. The extensive menu contains local specialities plus “currywurst” (sausage in a spicy sauce), rump steak and a few vegetarian dishes. But there are also snacks such as “Halver Hahn” (a cheese roll served with gherkin and mustard) if you’re looking for something smaller. Now it’s just up to you, the guest, to find a corner you’d like to make your own and do your part in preserving Cologne’s Brauhaus culture. Cheers!

Reissdorf am Griechenmarkt
Kleiner Griechenmarkt 40, 50676 Köln
Web: www.brauhaus-reissdorf.de, www.facebook.com/Brauhaus-Reissdorf-am-Griechenmarkt-106049979484301/