visitKoeln
  • Lifestyle
  • Gastronomic diversity
  • Culinary finds
  • Originally Kölsch
en
  • Deutsch
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Haus Scholzen, ©Jennifer Braun

Half chickens and heaven on earth

Everyone learns on their first day in Cologne that in this city, you drink Kölsch in rods. Well, Stangen anyway. But to drink you need to eat, too, so what classic dishes should visitors be sure to try? Our writer Julia Floß introduces us to five genuine Cologne options and tells us where you can order them.

Himmel un’ Ääd at Hellers

The Rhineland is known for its sweet-and-sour or sweet-and-savoury cuisine, and Himmel un’ Äad (“heaven and earth”) is Cologne’s most famous example. Heaven, in this case, is sweet apple sauce, while potato mash symbolises the earth. The whole thing is topped off with deep-fried or caramelised onions. But the lead character in this ensemble is definitely Flönz, or black pudding, Cologne’s culinary counterpart to the Cathedral. It’s served fried, with a lovely crispy shell and a soft inside. Himmel un’ Äad is at its most delicious if each mouthful consists of an equal amount of all four components and is washed down with a cold glass of Kölsch in traditional surroundings, like Hellers Brauhaus. Hellers is one of Cologne’s younger brewery pubs and has made a name for itself as much for its atmosphere as for its beer. The green conservatory in the centre of this pretty, rustic space is open year-round and offers a very special atmosphere. The perfect backdrop for your very own piece of heaven on earth.

HELLERS Brauhaus
Roonstraße 33, 50674 Cologne
Web: www.hellers.koeln | www.facebook.com/hellerskoeln

Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | HELLERS Brauhaus, ©HELLERS Brauhaus
© HELLERS Brauhaus
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | HELLERS Brauhaus
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | HELLERS Brauhaus, ©HELLERS Brauhaus
© HELLERS Brauhaus
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | HELLERS Brauhaus, ©HELLERS Brauhaus
© HELLERS Brauhaus

Halve Hahn at Johann Schäfer

No doubt about it, Halve Hahn is the most confusingly named dish ever. Even Köbesse (brewery pub servers) and historians cannot agree on its origins. So what does the name mean? Well, “Halve Hahn” is dialect for “half a chicken”, but what you actually get is a Röggelchen, or rye bread roll, topped with cheese, mustard and onions. Rumour has it that the name was coined by a local funny man called Wilhelm Vierkötter, who had done a deal with a Köbes to try and confuse party guests by serving cheese rolls instead of roast chicken. This was back in 1877, but the joke’s on us to this day – and so Halve Hahn is on the menu of every single Brauhaus in the city.
Johann Schäfer is the youngest and most modern brewery pub in Cologne and serves its own interpretation of this Cologne classic: a slice of 18-month-old Gouda cheese with beer mustard, vinegar-laced onions and endive on home-baked rye bread. Kölsch snacks don’t get much more perfect than this.

Johann Schäfer
Elsaßstraße 6, 50677 Cologne
Web: www.johann-schaefer.de | www.facebook.com/johannschaeferbrauhaus

Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Johann Schäfer, ©Luisa Zeltner
© Luisa Zeltner
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Johann Schäfer, ©Luisa Zeltner
© Luisa Zeltner
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Johann Schäfer, ©Luisa Zeltner
© Luisa Zeltner

Rheinischer Sauerbraten at Max Stark

Traditionally, classic Sauerbraten (literally, sour roast) consists of horsemeat. This has historical reasons, as Cologne used to be home to a large number of horse butchers. Today it’s a dying trade, and so modern Sauerbraten is more often than not made with beef. Like Himmel un’ Äad, Sauerbraten is a typical example of Rhineland cuisine in that it is both sweet and sour. The raw meat is marinated for several days in a vinegary mixture, then stewed and the sauce flavoured with sweet-ish ingredients such as sugar beet syrup, apple syrup, or spiced gingerbread. Typical side dishes include potato dumplings, stewed red cabbage and/or apple sauce. Sauerbraten is a hearty winter dish that many Rhinelanders will first have tasted at their granny’s kitchen tables. As for the ideal venue, Max Stark is one of Cologne’s prettiest traditional taverns and serves classic Rhineland cuisine: Haxe (pork knuckles), Flönz (black pudding), Matjes (young herring) and of course Sauerbraten – the horsemeat kind. A must-try for any visitor to Cologne.

Max Stark
Unter Kahlenhausen 47, 50668 Cologne
Web: www.max-stark.de

Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Max Stark
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Max Stark

Rievkooche at Haus Scholzen

While potato pancakes are popular all over Germany, most regions will refer to them by a dialectal name. In Cologne, where they are known as Rievkooche, they are a very popular snack. A lot of work goes into making perfect Rievkooche and so many taverns will only have them on the menu on specific days. For instance, at Schreckenskammer Wednesday is Rievkooche day. Reibekuchen Heinz is another institution, with long queues forming outside Heinz’s market stall on Sudermanplatz every Tuesday. And remember what I told you about Rhineland cuisine being sweet-and-savoury? Rievkooche are no exception; they are invariably served with a topping of apple sauce, sometimes also with sugar beet syrup and a slice of black bread on top. At Haus Scholzen in Ehrenfeld, unusually Rievkooche are on the menu every day. Try them with Flönz (black pudding) and fried onions, or the version with beef tatar.

Haus Scholzen
Venloer Straße 236, 50823 Cologne
Web: www.haus-scholzen.de

Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Haus Scholzen, ©Jennifer Braun
© Jennifer Braun
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Haus Scholzen, ©Jennifer Braun
© Jennifer Braun
Fünf echt kölsche Klassiker | Haus Scholzen, ©Jennifer Braun
© Jennifer Braun

More adresses for Rievkooche:

Schreckenskammer
Ursulagartenstraße 11-15, 50668 Cologne
Web: www.schreckenskammer.com | www.facebook.com/Brauhaus-Zur-Schreckenskammer-157952054232538

Reibekuchen Heinz
Sudermannplatz, 50670 Cologne
Web: www.reibekuchen-heinz.de

Hämmchen at Haus Töller

“Hämmchen with suure Kappes”, or ham hock with sauerkraut, is so popular in Cologne that even songs have been written about it. The Hämmchen is sometimes also known as Kölner Schinken, or Cologne ham, as it’s a cut of pork leg. Traditionally, the hock is salted and stewed. This hearty dish is popular in many regions across Germany and is hence known under a number of names. In southern Germany it’s called Haxe, while Berliners know it as Eisbein. Cologne’s version is traditionally served with sauerkraut and mashed potato in overwhelming portion sizes, as is the norm with brewery pub fare. Haus Töller is one of the city’s most popular taverns and is famed for its Hämmchen. Should you be unable to grab a table, try Haus Fischenich just across the road.

Haus Töller
Weyerstraße 96, 50676 Köln
Web: www.haus-toeller.de | www.facebook.com/haustoeller

1 Comment
  1. Sebe says:
    March 21, 2020 at 2:32 PM

    Looking forward to trying these dishes when I come to Koeln☺

    Reply

Leave a Comment

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Julia Floß
Julia Floß

Share this post

Share this entry
  • Share on Facebook
  • Share on Twitter
  • Share on Pinterest
  • Share on Tumblr

Latest Posts

  • StadtgartenGreat parks to visit in CologneJuly 27, 2022 - 1:46 PM
  • CityLeaks Urban Art ToursJuly 26, 2022 - 11:10 AM
  • Straßengold: Arbeiten von xxxhibition, Straßengold II, Kulturbunker Mülheimer, 2016, Foto: artkissedCologne’s best galleries for Street ArtJuly 26, 2022 - 11:00 AM

More from author

  • Weihnachtsmarkt in Köln, Nikolausdorf auf dem RudolfplatzExploring food at Cologne’s Christmas marketsNovember 22, 2019 - 10:30 AM
  • Die fünf besten Backstuben | prôtCologne’s top five bakeriesSeptember 12, 2019 - 1:21 PM
  • Eatdoori - Indische Restaurants in KölnIndian restaurantsJune 12, 2019 - 12:15 PM

Contact

KölnTourismus GmbH
Kardinal-Höffner-Platz 1
50667 Köln
internet@koelntourismus.de

Latest News

  • StadtgartenSchöne zentrumsnahe Parks in KölnJuly 27, 2022 - 1:47 PM
  • StadtgartenGreat parks to visit in CologneJuly 27, 2022 - 1:46 PM
  • Straßengold: Arbeiten von xxxhibition, Straßengold II, Kulturbunker Mülheimer, 2016, Foto: artkissedDie besten Galerien für Street Art in KölnJuly 26, 2022 - 11:11 AM
Copyright © KölnTourismus GmbH
  • Twitter
  • Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Media Information
  • Guidelines
  • Imprint
  • Legal Notice
  • cologne-tourism.com
en
  • Deutsch
  • Lifestyle
  • Gastronomic diversity
  • Culinary finds
  • Originally Kölsch
Scroll to top